Kami Rita, a Sherpa mountaineer, holds the world record for the most number of successful ascents of Mount Everest. As of 2023, he has reached the summit of Everest 28 times. Kami started climbing at the age of ten, following his elders to earn extra income. At 22, he began working as a kitchen porter at the Everest Base Camp, while his brother Lakpa worked as a guide for climbers on the mountain. Over the next two years, under his brother's training, Kami acclimatized to high altitudes and challenging climbing routes, making his first summit attempt at the age of 24.
Kami once said, "I always strive to ensure every client reaches the summit, but my bottom line is that when I realize any client cannot continue, I abandon the mission."
A tired and exhausted 30-year-old climber returned to the Everest Camp 3, located at 23,500 feet, with heavy footsteps. It was her first time climbing to such a high altitude. From the beginning, Kami noticed that reaching the summit would be extremely challenging for this client. It took her 19 hours to hike from the Everest Base Camp to Camp 2, double the expected time. When she finally arrived, Kami believed she was not adequately prepared for the summit and made the decision to send her back by helicopter.
A few days later, the client rejoined the group and set off from the base camp again. Initially, things went smoothly, but at 19,685 feet, she became heavily reliant on supplemental oxygen, which is typically reserved for altitudes above 22,965 feet. When they reached Camp 3, Kami made the firm decision to escort his client back to a safe zone lower on the mountain; the risks were too great for her. When something doesn't feel right, going down is always the best decision. Because as long as you're alive, Mount Everest will always be here, waiting for you.
In recent years, standardized and commercialized mountaineering companies have prepared a full range of services and support for climbing Mount Everest. However, climbing massive peaks like Everest remains extremely dangerous. At altitudes of 23,500 feet, the weather is incredibly harsh. The peak experiences hurricane-level winds, temperatures can drop as low as -99°F, and oxygen levels are only one-third of those at sea level. Helicopters and GPS devices are limited, and even the strongest Sherpas cannot carry someone who has lost the ability to move down the mountain.
Despite the maturing commercial climbing system, the increasing number of climbers attempting Everest has led to overcrowding. The infamous "traffic jam" incident occurred on Everest in 2019, marking one of the deadliest mountaineering disasters in history, with over a dozen people losing their lives on the southern side of the mountain. Climbers were queuing for three hours at the Hillary Step, located around 12 meters below the summit. According to eyewitnesses, approximately 200 climbers were stuck at that spot.
The Hillary Step is a nearly vertical rock face about 12 meters below the summit of Everest. It is the last real challenge on the Southeast Ridge route to the summit and is known as the "death zone." Due to the long wait times, excessive exertion, extreme cold, and lack of oxygen, three hours could make the difference between life and death.
